Two-sided contrast
The differences between approaches define the climb’s identity
The Col d’Izoard (2,361 m) is one of the most iconic climbs of the French Alps, not because of its altitude, but because of its landscape, exposure, and place in cycling history.
Located in the Hautes‑Alpes, it connects Briançon in the north with Château‑Ville‑Vieille and Guillestre in the south and forms a key section of the Route des Grandes Alpes, the long‑distance Alpine crossing between Lake Geneva and the Mediterranean.
Geologically, the Izoard stands apart. Near the summit, the road from the south passes through the Casse Déserte, a desolate area of pale scree, eroded limestone spires, and barren slopes that feel closer to a lunar landscape than a classical Alpine meadow. This stark environment, combined with the exposure to wind and sun, gives the climb its distinctive and unmistakable character.
Why ride the Col d’Izoard?
You ride the Izoard for character rather than height.
Unlike climbs defined by extreme gradients or record‑breaking altitude, the Izoard delivers:
- A unique and instantly recognisable landscape
- A strong sense of exposure, especially above Cervières
- A climb that changes rhythm and atmosphere as it unfolds
- Direct links to some of the most important moments in Tour de France history
The Izoard rewards patience and timing more than explosive power. It feels harder than the numbers suggest—particularly on hot, windless days—making it a climb that stays memorable long after the summit sign.
Seasonal notes
- The Izoard is typically open from late May to October, snow dependent
- Wind can be a decisive factor near the summit, particularly in the Casse Déserte
- Summer temperatures in the valleys can be high, while the summit remains cool
- There is limited shelter on the upper slopes—weather changes are felt immediately
- The Refuge Napoléon just below the summit offers a logical stop on the descent
Early starts are recommended, not for traffic avoidance but for heat and wind management.
Tour de France
The Col d’Izoard has been in Tour de France stages no less than 36 times, lastly in 2019. In 2017’s stage 20, the Izoard was the only time the stage actually finished on its summit.
While Warren Barguil won that stage, more memorable and perhaps more impressive, at least for me, was Annemiek van Vleuten’s win in La Course, the one-day women event. Barguil was actually slower on the ascent than runner up Romain Bardet, but van Vleuten was only beaten by a handful of (other) guys, out of the entire TDF peloton.
The Izoard has been awarded the Souvenir Henri Desgrange only once, in 2014.
Several memorable moments have occurred on the Col d’Izoard, particularly the “clashes” between Fausto Coppi and Louison Bobet, among others. Just past the equally famous Casse Déserte, there is a memorial for Coppi and Bobet.
Giro d’Italia
Other than the other French stage course “Critérium du Dauphiné”, the Giro d’Italia also included the Izoard in a stage 5 times, the last time in 2007. In 1982 it was the Cima Coppi, the Giro’s highest altitude of that year. In 2007, the Agnel was in the same stage.
North vs South
The northern ascent from Briançon is the classic and historically dominant side of the Col d’Izoard, used most frequently by the Tour de France and remembered for the legendary Coppi–Bobet duels.
- The climb begins gently, winding upward through forests and alpine meadows
- Gradients remain manageable until Cervières, allowing riders to establish rhythm
- Past Le Laus, the road opens up and becomes progressively more exposed
- The summit arrives suddenly, without a dramatic geological transition
- Views expand rapidly near the top, but the landscape remains largely green and alpine
This side builds steadily and feels controlled until the finish. It is physically honest, rhythm-based, and historically resonant, but visually restrained compared to what lies just beyond the summit.
This is the preferred side for a first ascent and the one that best represents the Izoard’s place in cycling history.
The southern ascent is where the Izoard earns its myth.
- The lower approach through the Guil and Arvieux valleys is deceptively long
- Gradients become more irregular and mentally demanding after Brunissard
- The road climbs out of the forest and suddenly enters the Casse Déserte
- This final section is entirely exposed, barren, wind-prone, and visually surreal
- The Coppi–Bobet memorial is located here, in the heart of the mineral zone
The Casse Déserte exists exclusively on this side of the col. The stark scree slopes, eroded cargneules, and absence of vegetation define the Izoard in cycling history.
Physically and psychologically, this side tends to feel harder, especially in heat or headwinds.side provides a sterner test of discipline and heat management—and is often preferred by those riding the Izoard as part of a longer chain of climbs in the southern Alps.
Briançon
The classic ascent from Briançon is the most frequently used and historically significant side.
This side builds steadily and finishes dramatically, making it the preferred choice for first‑time riders and Tour de France stages.
The “fun” part of this ascent starts past Cervières, whereas from Le Laus you’re done freewheeling.
The final 8 kilometers is where you find all the hairpins and the views near the summit are overwhelming. Which is why there’s usually a photographer in one of the last hairpins, where the shot has the Peygus range as a spectacular backdrop.
Just down from the summit, you can find the Refuge Napoléon to descend back to and have a snack.
I’ve only done this ascent once, during stage 1 of my Tour de France of 2017, when we were located in Briançon. As that was in September, especially the upper half was a cold affair 🥶
Château‑Ville‑Vieille
The southern ascent is shorter, warmer, and often underestimated.
This side may be physically comparable on paper, but psychologically it is often the tougher of the two, especially in hot conditions.
While the real climb starts in Ville-Veille, you can and probably should start in Guillestre. The first 16 km or so are hardly more than a warming up, but you cycle through the spectacular Gorges du Guil.
I have experienced (twice) that the part through the valley between Arvieux and La Draye can be even tougher than the final. The wind can be a factor to reckon with and I have ‘sheltered’ in the wake of the car whenever Paula gave me the opportunity.
Also from this end, starting in Brunissard, all the hairpins are in the last 7 kilometers; the passage through the Casse Déserte gives you a few hundred meters of downhill before the final.
I have not seen a photographer in the final kilometer(s) of this ascent and there’s no refuge on this end but a bit down the other end, you find Refuge Napoleon.
I’ve been up this end in my Tour de France of 2014 (June, hot) and 2017 (September, cold).
Background picture: Zairon, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
