“Giro d’Italia!” is my first thought whenever the Treasury Secretary gives the green light for another trip into the high mountains.
To be more precise: I first think of the Dolomites in the northeast.
Nearly equally shared between the provinces of Belluno, South Tyrol and Trentino, the latter two together being referred to as Trentino-Alto Adige.
Just looking at the pictures and the profiles of the climbs there, does make my heart beat faster.
Obviously, I do not mind wandering off in the Ortler Alps to the west of the Dolomites.
If only for the Gavia and the not any less attractive Bormio end of the Stelvio.
But, as much as I like the area around Bormio, it pales in comparison to that of the Sella group and Sassongher.
That area is often considered the heart of the Dolomites.
Dolomites
My most favorite spot in this cycling heaven, is Corvara in Badia or Kurfar.
It’s located at the bottom of the climbs up the Campolongo 1 and Gardena, the Valparola being just around the corner in Villa.
“Amore Infinito” is a Giro d’Italia official social media hash tag, which for me is perfect for this area ❤️♾️
The views are overwhelming with the Sassongher towering over it.
But if you want a bit more activity, you should probably go to the other end of the Gardena, to Selva di Val Gardena or Sante Cristina.
Or, alternatively, to the east, to Cortina d’Ampezzo at the bottom of the climbs up the Giau and Falzarego.
This area is also home to the Sella Ronda, during which – twice a year – motorized traffic is all but forbidden; Corvara is one of several places along the route where you can start and end your Sella Ronda.
And, to up the stakes: it’s also home to the Maratona dles Dolomites, which ends in Corvara.
The longest version of the Maratona, including the Sella Ronda, is 138 kms with 4,230 m of D+
Been there, done both and I’ve also cycled the Dolomites Bike Day, which is another event with limited motorized travel.
Ortler Alps
If you want to stay in an equally strategically placed town in the Ortler Alps, you will – like me – most likely end up in Bormio.
Other than the starting point of the climbs up the Gavia and the Stelvio, it also connects to the Foscagno leading to Livigno.
And, located at the top of the Valtellina valley, it is within cycling distance of two of the more famous climbs up the Mortirolo, as well as 4 alternatives to those…
On the other end of the Stelvio, you can look for accommodation around Prato.
Other than the Stelvio, the fork to Solda (off the Stelvio) and Val Martello, there aren’t that many cols to be had, though.
However, this end, preferably closer to Nauders, is home to the Dreiländer Giro.
If you want to enjoy cycling the Stelvio free of motorized traffic, look for an event.
I’ve participated in the Mapei Day from Bormio. This is now the “Re Stelvio-Mapei“, although as non-Italian (cycling federation member), you’ll enter the “Mapei Memorial Aldo Sassi”.
From Prato, there’s also a motorized traffic-free event, the Stelvio Bike Day.
Giro d’Italia Bike Rebel Style
So, whenever there is a trip scheduled to these areas, I shamelessly dub it Giro d’Italia.
After all, the UCI pro version of that course is usually decided in the mountain stages there 🙂
Over time, as much as it makes my heart bleed, the Tour de France has overtaken the Giro.
I enjoyed three Giro d’Italia’s so far and no less than six Tours, 2024 being the sixth, and fourth in a row…
The costs for an apartment in my beloved Dolomites skyrocketed after the Corona pandemic.
At least, I haven’t been able to find anything suitable for less than twice a similar accommodation in France.
Not in the more strategically located towns the Dolomites.
However, in 2025 there will be a fourth Giro d’Italia, but that will mainly be in the Ortler Alps and Valtellina valley, with a base camp in Bormio.
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1 At least the commonly known and most cycled final 6 kms of it: the full Campolongo starts in Pederoa, 14 kilometers north of Corvara.
Giro d’Italia 2025
In 2025, we will be having fun in – mostly – the Ortler Alps and Valtellina valley, being based near Bormio again.
We have already booked an apartment in Valdisoto and in the coming months, I’ll do my usual reconnaissance of the area.
More on the Giro d’Italia 2025 main page.
Giro d’Italia 2020
In a year dominated by the Covid-19 pandemic, we had a base camp in Ponte di Legno for 11 days, the last week of July and the first week of August.
Basically, because we found an all-inclusive **** hotel, with an offer that we couldn’t resist.
Ponte di Legno is located at the foot of the Gavia and the more interesting part of the Tonale.
However, it is not located in my favorite area, the Dolomites and we also booked two nights in Corvara.
This gave me the opportunity to cycle there for three days.
Although only one of those was ‘dedicated’ in full, as travel shortened the available cycling time for the other two.
Hardly enough to revisit all the passes in the area, but it offered me the opportunity to cycle the Maratona dles Dolomites.
And I used the return trip to Ponte di Legno to cycle the Solda fork and then the remainder of the Stelvio from Prato.
Giro d’Italia 2015
In June 2015 we went back to Italy for some more.
Again divided into two parts: one week in Corvara and one in Bormio (Valdisotto).
This Giro d’Italia was concluded with a smashing Swiss stage on the way back home.
Some old friends like the Stelvio and Giau were revisited and new friends like the Würzjoch were found.
Sadly, we were denied the world renowned view on (top of) the Tre Cime di Lavaredo because of the clouds/fog.
The concluding Swiss stage brought us the Gotthard, Furka and Grimsel
The special Via Tremola, the breathtaking views from both the Furka and Grimsel were something not easily forgotten either…
I vowed to get back one day and in 2019, I organized a Tour de Suisse.
Giro d’Italia 2011
In July of 2011, I cycled my first Giro d’Italia, my first “Grand Tour” in the high mountains.
It consisted of two parts, one based in San Pietro (near Selva di Val Gardena) and the second part based in Valdidentro (Bormio).
The most difficult climb of that Giro was the Monte Zoncolan.
Difficult ‘as is’, this ‘gateway to hell’ almost got the better of me.
However, it made climbing the Mortirolo seem like a piece of cake at the time.
An experience I’ve never been able to reproduce during any of my later climbs up there…
A map with Italian cols I’ve created info pages on, as well as track of the Percorso Maratona, which you can see (better) if you zoom in to Corvara:
Background picture: Andrea Amato
